Business in town

Posted by Ali

Worship this wet morning was different but good. Thomas, one of the Maasai gatekeepers, brought his Maasai-language Bible and read from it while he talked for worship. Christopher, who is in charge of keeping the cottages and the kitchen and is also Maasai, translated for Thomas into Swahili. But, because I was there, another translation was needed. So Muze, the accountant, translated from Swahili into English for me. It was quite interesting to listen to the three languages bouncing around the room.

After worship Max and I went back to his office and went through some e-mails we'd gotten about various proposals. We did a lot of talking, a bit of work and wrote a few e-mail responses. Then we got ready to head for town. We were planning to go there to talk to a man about the possibility of putting in a hydo-electric dam somewhere in the Arusha Region or in surrounding regions. But since we've decided, with help from ADRA Germany, to forgo the opportunity to write a concept note for funding for a renewable energy project, that visit wasn't so crucial. We still went to town on a fact-finding (and grocery-shopping) mission. Our first stop after the half-hour drive was at immigration. I stayed in the Land Cruiser while Max went in to talk to the officers about getting the work visas. We didn't want them questioning me about what I had been doing since getting to Tanzania and so I enjoyed 10 minutes of quality people-watching time.  When Max came back he told me that the immigration officer who had done the inspection on our campus last week wasn't in the office since she's now taking some classes. Her secretary said that he would try to start working on the issue in about 10 days, but Max explained that we desperately needed to get the visas as soon as possible and the secretary eventually said he would try to make sure the immigration officer would come in to the office on the weekend and send in her authorization to Dar es Salaam. Hopefully that happens. This has been going on way too long and we desperately need Simon to come down from Kenya and help us with grant writing.

Next we headed to the north end of town where there's a bunch of warehouses and workshops. We were looking for a place called Smarty Hardy that someone had told us about that constructed bicycle ambulances. We're trying to find out more information on them to see if they will work for a project that we just finished a proposal for. We first went to Jumbo, a wheat and bread complex. There were no construction shops and no one working there knew of a place called Smarty Hardy. We went into the bread warehouse and bought a few loaves and buns for much cheaper than in the local grocery stores and then headed down the road to the next warehouse. This one was for farm implement construction and fixing cars. The men there were very friendly, but didn't seem to know of the place we were looking for. Then another man walked by and heard what we were saying. He jumped into the conversation and told us the shop we were looking for was just down the next side road. We thanked the men and hopped back in the car.

As we drove to the next road, I glanced out my window (the left one cause Tanzanians drive on the left side of the road and drivers sit on the right hand side of the vehicle) and saw a really amazing building. I asked Max what it was but then saw the sign a second later: Cultural Heritage Centre. The building was built with one side in the shape of a drum and the other side with a spear and shield leaning against it. It was really, really cool but I couldn't get my camera out of my pocket in time to take a picture. And even if I had been able to, it wouldn't have been near as impressive with power poles and cars getting in the way. Just take it from me, it was super awesome looking and I hope I can see what it's like inside someday. There was a whole fenced in grounds area too that, from what I could see, looked really well kept up.

We turned at the next road, drove down a long dirt driveway and honked the horn at a white painted gate. The gatekeeper opened the gate and we parked and went inside the nearest building. The secretary pointed us in the direction of the manager or owner or whoever he was. He was very friendly and told us that his business was making cement blocks and other building-type materials and then he took us outside to show us where the Smarty Hardy warehouse was. It was all closed up though with no one around so he said to come inside and he'd give us their number. What was supposed to be him finding and giving us the number turned into a 20 minute talk about everything ranging from the ins and outs of his business to what ADRA does in Tazania to where he used to live and got his education (England) and a multitude of other topics. It was quite interesting actually, but my could that man talk.

Finally we pulled ourselves out of his office (after already walking out once before being called back in) and got back on the main road, this time going in the opposite direction, into town. We stopped at Shop-Rite, a grocery store where many of the items are imported from South Africa, making it quite similar to North American grocery stores. Apparently the prices are a bit more expensive, but then again they've got a lot more options so I guess there's pros and cons. I walked up and down the aisles finding almost everything on my list and making sure I'd have enough food to last me until the next time I'd be able to get into town. (Davona goes on Wednesdays to buy things for the baby home and sometimes a few of the Cradle volunteers go with her, but it's always while I'm working so I can't go then.)

Then Max asked if I wanted to get any fresh fruit or vegetables. I had just bought two oranges and a bag of frozen peas at the grocery store, but I did want some potatoes, bell peppers and maybe a couple other fruits, so I agreed that a stop at the local market would be beneficial. We tried to drive into the market area, but a teenage girl held up the end of a chain and told us that it would be 200 shillings (about 14 cents CAD) for parking so Max backed up and parked along the street. Then he said he'd stay with the car while I went to the market. Honestly, I was a little bit shocked since I've never been to the market here before, not even in Usa River, and this was the big town of Arusha. But I realized that this would be a good opportunity to see if I could handle doing this kind of thing on my own and said, "OK, just tell me where I go." He gave me vague directions and I set off. Once I got to the entrance where the girl was still holding the chain, young boys suddenly surrounded me and started jabbering away in Swahili and shoving black plastic bags into my hands. I tried to ask if they were free or came with a price tag but none of them seemed to understand English so I decided that, no matter the cost, I'd need a bag to carry the produce anyway and took one from the closest boy. He didn't hold out his hand for money, which surprised me a little since I figured it would definitely cost something, so I just kept walking thinking that now that the hubbub of trying to give me a bag was over they would leave me alone. Not so, unfortunately. I don't really enjoy being THAT close to people, especially young boys who are at a perfect height to quietly dip their fingers into your pockets while you're otherwise occupied. I was glad that the morning had been rainy and I'd decided to wear my rain jacket with zip pockets. My money was safely zipped into my inside pocket, but I still didn't enjoy being surrounded by the potential swindlers (not trying to sound mean or insensitive here, but I've been to other areas of the world so I'm not totally naive about how things work).

I headed toward the first table I saw heaped with green peppers. The lady in charge of the table didn't speak English but, luckily for me, a boy who looked about 13 or 14 swept in to take charge. He told me that a kilo of peppers were 4000 shillings (about $2.70 CAD). I replied that I only wanted two peppers, not a whole kilo so he told me that half a kilo was 2000. Before I could again state that I only wanted two peppers, he had grabbed an armful of the green veggies and strode a few steps over to a weigh scale. After plopping the peppers on the scale he weighed out half a kilo, which came out to five peppers. He started to put them in my bag, but I pulled it back, again saying that I only would buy two. He finally conceded and handed over two peppers. I asked how much that would cost and he told me 2000 shillings. I said no and explained that if it cost 2000 shillings for five, I wasn't about to pay the same price for only two. He repeated 2000 and I said no and began to hand the peppers back. But then a grin broke out on his face and he said, "OK, for you discount price." I ended up paying 800 shillings (54 cents CAD). Next it was potatoes. He told me the price for a kilo and I asked to see how big a kilo was. It was way too many for me to eat by myself before they might go bad so I then asked about half a kilo. That looked much more manageable and he said it was 2000 shillings. I was about to see if I could argue that price lower when I realized that 2000 is less than $1.50 and I thought that was a pretty good price and I just wanted to get my food and get out of there. The young boys were pressing in closer and I didn't want them to accidentally find my strategically placed money. I agreed to the price and then he grinned and tossed on another three or four small potatoes. "No extra charge, just for you," he said. I thanked him and turned to fruits, asking about pineapples and mangoes. The salesboy led me to another table where he showed me a pineapple and said it was, again, 2000 shillings. I asked him which one was best, having forgotten anything I ever learned about telling the ripeness of pineapples. He handed me one and I bagged it quickly before the little boys, still close enough to elbow, tried to give me another plastic bag. Then he showed me the mangoes and I bought one for 800 shillings. Then I was done. I could have bought more but my plastic bag was pretty full and I didn't want it to rip open and spill my carefully bargained for food out all over the narrow market walkways, nor did I want to get another bag and risk having one of the boys tear it from my hands to carry it himself and then expect pay for their service. I thanked the astute salesboy and handed over the total, reminded him of the change I needed. He got the change and counted it out for me. Then he gave me my own reminder; I needed to pay the boys for the plastic bag. I thought so. I asked the price and dug into my pocket for a 100 shilling coin but only came up with three 200 shilling coins. I gave it over but asked for 100 back. All the boys, even the sales one, thought I was asking for another bag since I'd given them a coin for the price of two bags. I rephrased the statement saying, "No, I don't need another bag, I need my change back." This time they got it and one of the small boys dug around in his pocket for a 100 shilling coin and placed it in my open palm. The business having been completed, I turned and headed the way I'd come amidst calls from ladies and boys at the other multitude of produce tables. I ignored them and tried to lose the bevy of boys by quick-walking. A few tagged along asking to carry my bag, but after saying no several times and holding the bag close to my chest to indicate I was fine with it on my own, they straggled off. And then I was back on the street and quite proud of myself for surviving an Arusha market and spending less than 8,000 shillings ($5.30 CAD) on two green peppers, more than half a kilo of potatoes, a large pineapple and a mango. Even if I did get the mazuru (visitor/foreigner) prices that's still better than what all that would cost at home...at least I think so.

Once I arranged all my bags in the Land Cruiser we headed back to Usa River driving through the remainder of town. I recognized several places from the last time (and first time) I'd been in the area more than two weeks ago with Davona and the other volunteers on our first full day in Tanzania. Once we got back to the campus I went to Cottage 7 to put away my groceries and found that Christopher had cleaned up more room in the cupboard and fridge for me. What great timing! I now have my things on a whole shelf in the cupboard and there's another one that Christopher said I can use too if I want. Max had told me when we parked and got out of the car that I could come to his place for lunch and then we'd go back to the office and finish up the PMF (performance measurement framework...you don't want me to explain what that is, but if you're curious just Google it. I'm sure there are explanations out there) to send to ADRA Canada. So after putting my things away I eagerly walked to Max's house. We had spaghetti and a really good and tiny bit spicy sauce with veggie meat in it and also a salad and a pastry that Max bought at the store for dessert. Yum! Davona came in about halfway through our meal simply glowing. She and Ashley had gone to a nearby hospital for the morning to help deliver babies (Ashley just graduated with her RN and took her NCLEX just before coming here and Davona is trained as a surgeon's assistant). They were worried they wouldn't have any deliveries while they were at the hospital but Davona said there were four in four hours! The first one had to be a C-section because the woman wasn't pushing and they were worried about the baby, but the last three were all delivered naturally and Ashley got to deliver the last one all by herself while Davona took pictures of her. After hearing all about the conditions of the hospital (the women have to bring everything they might possibly need for the birth with them when they come because there are absolutely no supplies there for them to use), Max and I headed back to the office where we worked on finishing the PMF until after 4 p.m. It feels great to finally have that proposal done and off our hands!

Before going back to my cottage, I went to the preschool to talk to Danielle about church tomorrow. She was getting the kids ready to go outside and play with the younger ones before supper and was having a difficult time and said to give her a few minutes to get the kids back with the nannies and other volunteers and then she'd come talk to me so I went to get a broom and swept out my room. Staci saw me on my way back and left her hedge-trimmers (scissors) sitting on the hedge to help me out. Later when Danielle came to talk to me she invited me to bring my supper up to their apartment and eat with them. At 7:15 I was quite happy to be knocking on their door. It was great to hang out with those six girls again and they told me stories of their adventures in the past week (one involving a cell phone getting accidentally flushed down the toilet and stuck in the elbow trap thing. It kept on playing music for an hour before quitting). We laughed a lot and I was glad I went over there. Jackie in particular was glad I'd come since she's told me several times to come over any time I want. When Shae heard about my adventures in the market she was shocked, bursting out with, "What was he THINKING letting you go by yourself to the Arusha market for your first market experience?" She said she would have to talk to Max about it and make sure he doesn't do that again. But they were impressed when I told them about outsmarting the conniving salesboy and making sure I paid good prices for my produce. I sure wouldn't mind someone else with me, though, the next time I go to the market!